Dotted across the north-west of the Pacific Ocean, the limestone islands of Palau rise like forested domes. Beneath the waves, reefs pulse with activity – fish dart through coral gardens, turtles drift nearby, while sharks with black-tipped fins shadow a passing tourist boat.
Nearly a decade ago, the country took a bold step to safeguard this vibrant seascape, declaring 80% of its waters a no-fishing sanctuary.
But support for the sanctuary – which covers a massive area about the size of Sweden – has soured among some Palauans. Those who rely on the ocean feel caught between the need to feed their families and the rules designed to protect their waters.
“If 80% of Palauan waters is a marine sanctuary, where am I going to get my fish?” asks Dennis Daniel, a waste management worker, while drinking beer on the shoreline of Palau’s most populous town, Koror. Fisherman have struggled to supply the local tuna markets, fuelling frustration over the nation’s strict fishing restrictions.
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