Best places to eat and drink on a road trip through the Coromandel and Bay of Plenty

Best places to eat and drink on a road trip through the Coromandel and Bay of Plenty

The next stop is Whangamatā, where I have heard about a new restaurant opening in the old pink cinema, which I remember going to as a child. Before it was a cinema, it was a dance hall. Now it has been reimagined yet again as a Spanish restaurant. At the core of the restaurant space and the menu is fire. Camina’s dining room is small and dimly lit. The seats around the bar have a front-row view, but no matter where you are, your eyes are drawn to the flames in the open kitchen.

Camina’s menu centres around fire-cooked dishes using local produce. Photo / Supplied

Camina is the vision of two friends, Barend and Rowan. Barend is the chef, his attention devoted to the fire and everything rotating in and out of it. Rowan is the host, all warm smiles and energy. The menu celebrates local and sustainable ingredients, with produce from organic Pakaraka Permaculture and wine from vineyards such as Deep Down, which creates small-batch, wild-fermented vintages. On the dessert menu is mousse made from Coromandel Chocolate, which has a shop down the road. The promise of flame-cooked meals means a lot of meat, so most of the charred menu is off-limits to me. But, Rowan assures me that one of the most popular dishes is the cabbage, grilled to perfection with subtly sweet tomato jam and labneh. It’s delicious. Rowan never stops moving, crisscrossing the room with plates of food and drink, but somehow he still manages to chat to me – and, I suspect, to almost everyone else there. He’s always smiling, even as he tells me about how busy they’ve been ever since opening their doors at the end of 2023. I’m not surprised. Fittingly for the name, which means “walk” in Spanish, it’s a place worth travelling to.

Best places to eat and drink on a road trip through the Coromandel and Bay of Plenty
Coromandel Chocolate, featured at Camina, is locally made and used in its decadent chocolate mousse. Photo / Jim Birchall

The following morning, I pause for coffee at Port Road Project, Barend’s other local hospitality venture. I spot him bustling around there too, apparently never stopping in his mission to bring good food and vibes to Whangamatā.

My road trip research takes me from the Coromandel along the coast to the lush Bay of Plenty, where I start to see more roadside fruit and vegetable stalls overflowing with avocados. My plan for lunch is Picnicka, in the centre of Tauranga. Picnicka is the latest concept of Kiwi-Italian couple Kim and Noel Cimadom, and like their other restaurants – Clarence Bistro and Alpino in the Mount – echoes the charm of European living. The restaurant is on the second floor of a shopping centre, which belies how beautiful the vast, light-filled space is.

The decor is rustic and takes the picnic theme to heart, with lots of wicker, checked fabric, and baskets of dried flowers. The menu is simple, focused on quality ingredients, and designed for sharing. That presents a problem for me. A challenge as a solo diner in the era of shared plates is ordering enough to sample a diverse menu without ordering too much for one person. I go way overboard and order far too much food. Nevertheless, I feel no shame as I tuck into house-made barbecued flatbread with whipped feta, luscious buffalo cauliflower with blue cheese sauce, and heirloom tomatoes with garlic yoghurt and fresh basil.

Turkish eggs at Port Road Project in Whangamatā. Photo / Monique Barden
Turkish eggs at Port Road Project in Whangamatā. Photo / Monique Barden

A few days later, and by then likely a few kilos heavier, I wake up to a sunrise further down the coast in Ōhope. After several days of eating, I don’t feel like a heavy breakfast, but coffee is on the cards. Volk and Co in Whakatāne, a specialty coffee bar with an earthy vibe, from forest-green coffee cups and a wood-accented interior, is the ideal place to start the day. The menu on the wall lists a range of different coffee preparations – filter, Vietnamese, cold brew, coconut iced coffee – but I order a flat white. And then throw in a dense chocolate brownie from the cabinet.

My final stop is yet another sweet surprise. Turning off the main highway back to Tauranga, I’m sceptical of finding a good lunch spot in sleepy Paengaroa, a small village in the midst of rolling green orchards. But lo and behold, there’s The Trading Post, a humble red weatherboard building on the corner of a quiet street. The sign promises an authentic Osteria Italiana. Through the front gates is a gorgeous little courtyard and a covered deck area, with enough vine-covered bricks and olive trees to make me feel transported somewhere much more Mediterranean. The dining room inside features the old fireplace, wooden floors, and rugs that add to the homely feel.

The Trading Post in Paengaroa serves authentic Piedmontese cuisine. Photo / Supplied
The Trading Post in Paengaroa serves authentic Piedmontese cuisine. Photo / Supplied

The restaurant is a family-owned affair, run by Piedmont native Simone Saglia and his Waikato-born wife, Kylie. The menu showcases specialties found in the different regions of Simone’s home country of Italy, but it’s shaped around seasonal, local produce. Like the bottoni, handmade button-shaped pasta stuffed with ricotta and Bay of Plenty truffles. Everything, from the focaccia to the pastries, is house-made with care. Obviously, I also order a dessert, because it doesn’t feel like a proper Italian lunch without one. Cracking the crunchy, caramelised sugar crust of the chocolate and mascarpone crema bruciata is a satisfying end to lunch.

The Trading Post’s handmade pasta is shaped around fresh, locally sourced ingredients, including Bay of Plenty truffles.
The Trading Post’s handmade pasta is shaped around fresh, locally sourced ingredients, including Bay of Plenty truffles.

Heading home, I’m happy to admit I was wrong about finding excellent places to eat in New Zealand’s smaller towns. The only real disappointment I experience on my Bay of Plenty food crawl is that Cigol, a Korean fusion restaurant in Whakatāne, is closed when I’m in town. Yet even that turns out to be a good thing – it gives me a great excuse to do the whole trip again.

How do you think the open kitchen and focus on fire-cooked dishes enhance the dining experience at Camina?

Interview Title: Kindling passion: A Conversation with Camina’s Rowan

Welcome to Archyde’s exclusive interview with Rowan, the charming host and co-founder of Whangamata’s newest culinary gem, camina. Nestled in the heart of Whangamata, this Spanish-inspired restaurant has become a beacon for food enthusiasts, drawing locals and visitors alike with its flame-kissed cuisine and inviting atmosphere. Rowan took some time out of his busy schedule to chat with us about Camina, its unique ambiance, and the power of community.

ARCHYDE: Hello Rowan, thank you for taking the time to chat with us today. Can you tell our readers a little bit about yourself and how Camina came to be?

ROWAN: Hi there! Thanks for having me. Well,I’ve always been passionate about hospitality and creating vibrant spaces where people can connect over great food and drinks. Before Camina, I was running a few other local establishments, but I’d always dreamt of creating a place that celebrated our beautiful region’s ingredients and brought a bit of that Spanish spirit to Whangamata. When my friend Barend, who’s a fantastic chef, expressed his love for cooking with fire, we knew we had to make this dream a reality. So, we converted the old pink cinema into Camina and opened our doors at the end of 2023.

ARCHYDE: The change of the old cinema is incredible. What inspired the decision to honor the building’s history with a Spanish restaurant?

ROWAN: We both have a soft spot for old spaces and their stories. Whangamata has such a rich history,and we wanted to somehow incorporate that into our concept. The old cinema was not only iconic, but its dancehall roots also tying in nicely with the social aspect of Spanish dining. Plus, we loved the idea of putting a modern twist on a classic space, just like how Spain has evolved its conventional cuisine.

ARCHYDE: Camina means “walk” in Spanish. What was the inspiration behind the name?

ROWAN: That’s right! We wanted a name that reflected the journey aspect of our dining experience, like a walk through different flavours, ingredients, and stories. It also ties in nicely with our love for local produce and wine, which essentially are walking their own journey from vineyards and farms to our table.

ARCHYDE: The open kitchen and focus on fire-cooked dishes create an unforgettable experience. How do you think this intimacy with the cooking process enhances the dining experience?

ROWAN: Having the open kitchen and bar seating right in front of the flames creates an energy and buzz that’s contagious. It’s like you’re part of the action, and it really humanizes the dining experience.you can see Barend and his team working their magic, and it makes the food taste even better, somehow! Plus, there’s just something primal and enchanting about cooking with fire that we think our guests really appreciate.

ARCHYDE: Camina’s commitment to local and sustainable ingredients is evident throughout the menu. How has the local community responded to this focus, and what local suppliers do you work with?

ROWAN: The response has been overwhelmingly positive! The local community hear is incredibly supportive, and they love knowing that their dollars are staying in the region and supporting our amazing producers. We’re lucky to work with some fantastic folks like Organic Pakaraka Permaculture for our vegetables, and Deep Down Vineyard for their delicious, wild-fermented wines. And we couldn’t make our dessert menu shine without Coromandel Chocolate – their stuff is seriously divine!

ARCHYDE: It’s clear that Camina is more than just a restaurant; it’s a community hub. What are some of your favorite customer interactions or moments that have happened at Camina?

ROWAN: Oh, we’ve had so many lovely moments, it’s hard to pick just one! But I’ll never forget our first busy night – the energy in the room, seeing everyone enjoying their meals, and realizing that we’d created something truly special for our community.And, of course, there are the regulars who’ve become like family to us, popping in for a chat or a meal. Their support means the world to us.

ARCHYDE: Rowan,what advice would you give to aspiring entrepreneurs looking to pour their hearts into a venture in their community?

ROWAN: My advice would be to stay true to your vision,but also listen to your community and be open to adapting. It’s a balancing act, but when you combine passion, hard work, and a genuine love for

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